KitchenAid refrigerator troubleshooting

Kitchenaid is an American brand of home appliances belonging to the company Whirlpool Corporation. The company was founded in 1919 on the basis of the Corporation Hobart to produce stationary mixers. Now this brand produces superreliable refrigerators. The table below represents Kitchenaid refrigerator troubleshooting system.

KitchenAid 2194692 refrigerator troubleshooting

Problem	Cause
The power supply cord is unplugged.	Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage.
A household fuse has blown or circuit breaker has tripped.	Replace the fuse or reset the circuit.
The refrigerator control is turned to the “OFF” position.	Refer to the “Setting the controls” section.
The refrigerator is defrosting.	Recheck to see if the refrigerator is operating in 30 minutes. Your refrigerator will regularly run an automatic defrost cycle. If it is still not running after checking the above items, call the Consumer Assistance Center.
The lights do not work
The power supply cord is unplugged.	Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage.
A household fuse or circuit breaker has tripped.	Replace the fuse or reset the circuit.
A light bulb is loose in the socket.	Turn the refrigerator control to OFF. Disconnect the refrigerator from the electrical supply. Gently remove the bulb and reinsert. Then reconnect the refrigerator to the electrical supply and reset the refrigerator control.
A light bulb has burned out.	Replace with an appliance bulb of the same wattage, size, and shape. See the “Changing the light bulbs” section.
There is water in the defrost drain pan
The refrigerator is defrosting.	The water will evaporate. It is normal for water to drip into the defrost pan.
It is more humid than normal.	Expect that the water in the defrost pan will take longer to evaporate. This is normal when it is hot or humid.
Water in the defrost pan is overflowing.	Check to make sure your refrigerator is level. (See the “Leveling” section.) If it is still overflowing there is probably something wrong with the refrigerator. Call the Consumer Assistance Center.
The motor seems to run too much
The room temperature is hotter than normal.	Expect the motor to run longer under warm conditions. At normal room temperatures, expect your motor to run about 40% to 80% of the time. Under warmer conditions, expect it to run even more of the time.
A large amount of food has just been added to the refrigerator.	Adding a large amount of food warms the refrigerator. It is normal for the motor to run longer in order to cool the refrigerator back down. See the “Food Storage Guide” section.
The door is opened often.	Expect the motor to run longer when this occurs. In order to conserve energy, try to get everything you need out of the refrigerator at once, keep food organized so it is easy to find, and close the door as soon as the food is removed.
The controls are not set correctly for the surrounding conditions.	Refer to the “How the controls work” section.
The doors are not closed completely.	Push the doors firmly shut. If they will not shut all the way, see “The doors will not close completely,” later in this section.
The base grille is dirty or blocked.	This prevents air circulation and makes the motor work harder. Remove the grille and clean. See “Removing the base grille” section.
The condenser coils are dirty.	This prevents air transfer and makes the motor work harder. Clean the condenser coils. Refer to the “Cleaning Your Refrigerator” section.
The door gaskets are not sealed all the way around. Contact a qualified person or a technician.	If the problem is not due to any of the above, remember that your new refrigerator will run longer than your old one due to its high efficiency motor.
The refrigerator seems to make too much noise
Certain sounds and noises are common for new refrigerators.	Refer to the “Understanding the sounds you may hear” section.
The ice maker is not producing ice
The freezer temperature is not cold enough to produce ice.	See the “Setting the controls” section.
The ice maker arm is in the “OFF” (up) position.	Lower arm to the “ON” (down) position. See “Using the optional automatic ice maker” section.
The water line shut-off valve to the refrigerator is not turned on.	Turn on the water valve. See the “Attaching the optional ice maker to a water supply” section.
An ice cube is jammed in the ejector arm.	Remove the ice from the ejector arm with a plastic utensil. Refer to the “Using the optional automatic ice maker” section.
The ice maker mold has no water in it or no ice has been produced.	Check to see if your refrigerator has been connected to your home water supply and the supply shut-off valve is turned on. Refer to the “Attaching the optional ice maker to a water supply” section.
	If not due to any of the above, there may be a problem with the water line. Contact the Consumer Assistance Center.
The ice maker is producing too little ice
The ice maker has just been installed.	Wait 72 hours for full ice production to begin. Once your refrigerator is cooled down, the ice maker should begin producing 70-120 cubes every 24 hours.
A large amount of ice has just been removed.	Allow 24 hours for ice maker to restock.
The controls are not set correctly.	Refer to the “Setting the controls” section.
The water shut-off valve is not turned completely on.	Turn valve on fully. Refer to the “Attaching the optional ice maker to a water supply” section.
There is a water filter installed on the refrigerator. This filter may be clogged or installed incorrectly.	First, check the filter installation instructions to ensure that the filter was installed correctly and is not clogged. If installation or clogging is not a problem, call a qualified person or technician.
Off-taste or odor in the ice
The plumbing connections are new, causing discolored or off-flavored ice.	Discard the first few batches of ice.
The ice cubes have been stored for too long.	Throw old ice away and make a new supply.
Food in the freezer has not been wrapped properly.	Refer to the “Storing Frozen Food” section.
Freezer and ice bin need to be cleaned.	See the “Cleaning Your Refrigerator” section.
Water contains minerals (such as sulfur).	A filter may need to be installed to remove the minerals.
The ice dispenser will not operate properly
The freezer door is not closed completely.	Push the door firmly shut. If it will not shut all the way, see “The doors will not close completely” later in this section.
The ice bin is not installed correctly.	Push the ice bin in all the way. If the ice bin does not go in all the way, it may not be put in straight. Pull it out and try again.
The wrong ice has been added to the bin.	Use only cubes produced by the current ice maker. If other cubes have been added, remove all cubes and check to see that none have become stuck in the delivery chute.
The ice has frozen in the ice bin.	Shake the ice bin to separate cubes. If cubes do not separate, empty bin and wait 24 hours for ice to restock.
The ice has melted around the auger (metal spiral) in the ice bucket.	Dump the ice cubes and clean the ice bucket completely Allow 24 hours for the ice maker to restock. Do not try to remove the melted ice with a sharp object. You could damage the ice bucket.
Ice is stuck in the delivery chute.	Clear the ice from the delivery chute with a plastic utensil. Do not use anything sharp to remove the ice. You could cause damage.
There is no ice in the bucket.	See “The ice maker is not producing ice” earlier in this section.
The dispenser arm has been held in too long.	Release dispenser arm. Ice will stop dispensing when the arm is held in too long. Wait three minutes for dispenser motor to reset before using again. (For future use, take large amounts of ice directly from the ice maker so that the dis- penser arm is not held in too long.)
The water dispenser will not operate properly
The freezer door is not closed completely.	Push the door firmly shut. If it will not shut all the way, see “The doors will not close completely” later in this section.
The water tank has not filled.	The water tank needs to be filled the first time it is used. Depress the water dispenser bar with a large container until you draw two or three quarts (1.9 to 2.8 L) of water. Discard water. (Refer to “Using the water and ice dispensers” section for further instructions on filling the water tank.)
The water shut-off valve is not turned on or the water line is not connected at the source.	Check to be sure the water shut-off valve is turned on and the water source is connected to the refrigerator. Refer to the “Attaching the optional ice maker to a water supply” section for directions.
The water shut-off valve is clogged or incorrectly installed.	Refer to the “Attaching the optional ice maker to a water supply” section. Call the Consumer Assistance Center or a plumber.
There is a kink in the home water source line.	If you find or suspect a kink in the water line, call the Consumer Assistance Center.
There is a water filter installed on the refrigerator. This filter may be clogged or incorrectly installed.	First, check the filter installation instructions to ensure that the filter was installed correctly and is not clogged. If installation or clogging is not a problem, call the Consumer Assistance Center.
Water or ice is leaking from the dispenser
The glass is not being held under the ice dispenser long enough, causing the ice to spill.	Hold the container under the ice chute for two to three seconds after releasing the dispenser lever. A small amount of ice may dispense after the lever is released.
The glass is not being held under the water dispenser long enough, causing water to drip.	Hold the container under the water dispenser two to three seconds after releasing the dispenser lever. Water may continue to dispense during this time.
An ice cube is stuck in the chute and holding the trap door open.	Remove the cube.
The dispenser water is not cool enough
The refrigerator has been newly installed.	Allow 24 hours for the tank to cool completely.
A large amount of water has been recently dispensed.	Allow 24 hours for the tank to cool completely.
No water has been recently dispensed.	The first glass of water may not be cool. Discard the first glass of water.
The center divider between the two compartments is warm
The condenser coil or base grille is dirty or clogged.	Clean according to “Cleaning Your Refrigerator” section.
The motor has quit working.	See “Your refrigerator will not operate” earlier in this section.
Temperature is too warm
The air vents are blocked in either compartment. This prevents the movement of cold air from the freezer to the refrigerator.	Remove any objects from in front of the air vents. Refer to “Ensuring proper air circulation” for the location of air vents.
The door(s) are opened often.	Be aware that the refrigerator will warm when this occurs. In order to keep the refrigerator cool, try to get everything you need out of the refrigerator at once, keep food organized so it is easy to find, and close the door as soon as the food is removed.
A large amount of food has just been added to the refrigerator or freezer.	Adding a large amount of food warms the refrigerator. It can take several hours for the refrigerator to return to the normal temperature.
The controls are not set correctly for the surrounding conditions.	See “How the controls work” section.
There is interior moisture build-up
The air vents are blocked in the refrigerator.	Remove any objects from in front of the air vents. Refer to “Ensuring proper air circulation” for the location of air vents.
The door is opened often.	To avoid humidity build-up, try to get everything you need out of the refrigerator at once, keep food organized so it is easy to find, and close the door as soon as the food is removed. (When the door is opened, humidity from the outside air enters the refrigerator. The more often the door is opened, the faster humidity builds up, especially when the room itself is very humid.)
The room is humid.	It is normal for moisture to build up inside the refrigerator when the outside air is humid.
The food is not packaged correctly.	Check that all food is securely wrapped. If necessary, repackage food according to the guidelines in the “Food Storage Guide” section. Wipe off damp food containers before placing in the refrigerator.
The controls are not set correctly for the surrounding conditions.	See the “How the controls work” section.
A self-defrost cycle was completed.	It is normal for droplets to form on the back wall after the refrigerator self-defrosts.
The doors will not close completely
Food packages are blocking the door open.	Rearrange containers so that they fit more tightly and take up less space.
The ice bin is out of position.	Push the ice bin in all the way.
The pans, shelves, bins, or baskets are out of position.	Put all pans, shelves, bins, and baskets back into their correct position.
The gaskets are dirty.	Clean gaskets according to the directions in the “Caring for Your Refrigerator” section.
The refrigerator is not level.	Level the refrigerator. Refer to “Leveling” in the “Using Your Refrigerator” section.
The doors were removed during product installation and not properly replaced.

KitchenAid ABL2527FES12 refrigerator troubleshooting

Problems	Cause/solutions
Your refrigerator will not operate	■ Is the power supply cord unplugged? Plug into a grounded 3 prong outlet.
	■ Has a household fuse or circuit breaker tripped? Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker.
	■ Is the refrigerator or freezer control turned to the OFF position? See “Using the Control(s).”
	■ Is the refrigerator defrosting? Recheck to see if the refrigerator is operating in 30 minutes. Your refrigerator will regularly run an automatic defrost cycle.
	■ Is the refrigerator not cooling? For models with digital controls, turn the unit OFF then ON again to reset. See “Using the Control(s).” If this does not correct the problem, call for service.
The lights do not work	■ Is the power supply cord unplugged? Plug into a grounded 3 prong outlet.
	■ Is a light bulb loose in the socket or burned out? See “Changing the Light Bulb(s).”
	■ Has the door been open more than 10 minutes? When the door is held open for more than 10 minutes, the “Door Open” indicator light will flash and the interior lights will shut off. See “Door Open” in “Using the Control(s).”
There is water in the defrost drain pan	■ Is the refrigerator defrosting? The water will evaporate. It is normal for water to drip into the defrost pan.
	■ Is it more humid than normal? When it is humid, expect that the water in the defrost pan will take longer to evaporate.
The motor seems to run too much	■ Is the room temperature hotter than normal? The motor will run longer under warm conditions. At normal room temperatures, expect your motor to run about 80% of the time. Under warmer conditions, it will run even more.
	■ Has a large amount of food just been added to the refrigerator? Adding a large amount of food warms the refrigerator. The motor normally will run longer to cool the refrigerator back down.
	■ Are the doors opened often? The motor will run longer when this occurs. Conserve energy by getting all items out at one time, keeping food organized, and closing the door as soon as possible.
	■ Are the controls not set correctly for the surrounding conditions? See “Using the Control(s).”
	■ Are the doors not closed completely? Close the doors firmly. If they do not close completely, see “The doors will not close completely” later in this section.
	■ Are the condenser coils dirty? This prevents air transfer and makes the motor work harder. Clean the condenser coils. See “Cleaning.”
	■ Are the door gaskets not sealed all the way around? Contact a technician or other qualified person. NOTE: Your new refrigerator will run longer than your old one due to its high-efficiency motor.
The refrigerator seems to make too much noise	■ The sounds may be normal for your refrigerator. See “Normal Sounds."
The ice maker is not producing ice or not enough ice	■ Has the ice maker just been installed? The ice bin holds 14 to 17 lbs. (6.4 to 7.7 kg) of ice. The ice bin can take three to four days to completely fill, if no ice is used during this time.
	■ Is the freezer temperature cold enough to produce ice? Wait 24 hours after ice maker hookup for ice production. See “Using the Control(s).”
	■ Is the ice maker wire shutoff arm in the OFF (wire shutoff arm up) position (on some models)? Lower wire shutoff arm to the ON (wire shutoff arm down) position. See “Ice Maker and Storage Bin.”
	■ Is the water line shutoff valve to the refrigerator not turned on? Turn on the water valve. See “Connect Water Line to Refrigerator” in the Installation Instructions.
	■ Is an ice cube jammed in the ice maker ejector arm? Remove the ice from the ejector arm with a plastic utensil. See “Ice Maker and Storage Bin.”
	■ Does the ice maker mold have water in it or has no ice been produced? Make sure your refrigerator has been connected to a water supply and the supply shutoff valve is turned on. See “Connect Water Line to Refrigerator” in the Installation Instructions.
	■ Has a large amount of ice just been removed? Allow three to four days for an empty ice bin to completely fill, if no ice is used during this time.
	■ Are the controls set correctly? See “Using the Control(s).”
	■ Is there a water filter installed on the refrigerator? The filter may be clogged or installed incorrectly. Check the filter installation instructions to ensure that the filter was installed correctly and is not clogged. If installation or clogging is not a problem, call a technician or other qualified person.
Off-taste, odor or gray color in the ice	■ Are the plumbing connections new, causing discolored or off-flavored ice? Discard the first few batches of ice.
	■ Have the ice cubes been stored too long? Throw old ice away and make a new supply.
	■ Does the freezer and ice bin or bucket need to be cleaned? See the “Cleaning” or “Ice Maker and Storage Bin.”
	■ Has food in the freezer or refrigerator been wrapped properly? Use airtight, moisture-proof packaging to help prevent odor transfer to stored food.
	■ Does the water contain minerals (such as sulfur)? A filter may need to be installed to remove the minerals.
	■ Is there a water filter installed on the refrigerator? Gray or dark discoloration in ice indicates that the water filtration system needs additional flushing. Run additional water through the water dispenser to flush the water filtration system more thoroughly (at least 6 qt. [5.7 L] or 3 to 4 minutes initially). Discard discolored ice.
The divider between the two compartments is warm	The warmth is probably due to normal operation of the automatic exterior moisture control. If still concerned, call for service.
Temperature is too warm	■ Are the air vents blocked in either compartment? This prevents the movement of cold air from the freezer to the refrigerator. Remove any objects from in front of the air vents. See “Ensuring Proper Air Circulation” for the location of air vents.
	■ Are the door(s) opened often? The refrigerator will warm when this occurs. Keep the refrigerator cool by getting all items out at one time, keeping food organized, and closing the door as soon as possible.
	■ Has a large amount of food just been added to the refrigerator or freezer? Adding a large amount of food warms the refrigerator. It can take several hours for the refrigerator to return to the normal temperature.
	■ Are the controls set correctly for the surrounding conditions? See “Using the Control(s).”
	■ Is the refrigerator not cooling? For models with digital controls, turn the unit OFF then ON again to reset. See “Using the Control(s).” If this does not correct the problem, call for service.
There is interior moisture buildup	■ Are the air vents blocked in the refrigerator? Remove any objects from in front of the air vents. See “Ensuring Proper Air Circulation” for the location of air vents.
	■ Are the door(s) opened often? Avoid humidity buildup by getting all items out at one time, keeping food organized, and closing the door as soon as possible.
	■ Is the room humid? It is normal for moisture to build up inside the refrigerator when the room air is humid.
	■ Is the food packaged correctly? Check that all food is securely wrapped. Wipe off damp food containers before placing in the refrigerator.
	■ Are the controls set correctly for the surrounding conditions? See “Using the Control(s).”
	■ Was a self-defrost cycle completed? It is normal for droplets to form after the refrigerator self-defrosts.
The doors will not close completely	■ Are food packages blocking the door open? Rearrange containers so that they fit more tightly and take up less space.
	■ Is the ice bin out of position? Push the ice bin in all the way. If the ice bin does not go in all the way, it may not be put in straight. Pull it out and try again. See “Ice Maker and Storage Bin.”
	■ Are the pans, shelves, bins, or baskets out of position? Put the crisper cover and all pans, shelves, bins, and baskets back into their correct positions. See “Crisper and Crisper Covers.”
	■ Are the gaskets sticking? Clean gaskets according to the directions in “Cleaning.”
	■ Does the refrigerator wobble or seem unstable? Level the refrigerator. See “Adjust Doors” and “Level Refrigerator” in the Installation Instructions.
The doors are difficult to open	■ Are the gaskets dirty or sticky? Clean gaskets according to the directions in “Cleaning.”