The power supply cord is unplugged. | Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage. |
A household fuse has blown or circuit breaker has tripped. | Replace the fuse or reset the circuit. |
The refrigerator control is turned to the “OFF” position. | Refer to the “Setting the controls” section. |
The refrigerator is defrosting. | Recheck to see if the refrigerator is operating in 30 minutes. Your refrigerator will regularly run an automatic defrost cycle. If it is still not running after checking the above items, call the Consumer Assistance Center. |
The lights do not work | |
The power supply cord is unplugged. | Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage. |
A household fuse or circuit breaker has tripped. | Replace the fuse or reset the circuit. |
A light bulb is loose in the socket. | Turn the refrigerator control to OFF. Disconnect the refrigerator from the electrical supply. Gently remove the bulb and reinsert. Then reconnect the refrigerator to the electrical supply and reset the refrigerator control. |
A light bulb has burned out. | Replace with an appliance bulb of the same wattage, size, and shape. See the “Changing the light bulbs” section. |
There is water in the defrost drain pan | |
The refrigerator is defrosting. | The water will evaporate. It is normal for water to drip into the defrost pan. |
It is more humid than normal. | Expect that the water in the defrost pan will take longer to evaporate. This is normal when it is hot or humid. |
Water in the defrost pan is overflowing. | Check to make sure your refrigerator is level. (See the “Leveling” section.) If it is still overflowing there is probably something wrong with the refrigerator. Call the Consumer Assistance Center. |
The motor seems to run too much | |
The room temperature is hotter than normal. | Expect the motor to run longer under warm conditions. At normal room temperatures, expect your motor to run about 40% to 80% of the time. Under warmer conditions, expect it to run even more of the time. |
A large amount of food has just been added to the refrigerator. | Adding a large amount of food warms the refrigerator. It is normal for the motor to run longer in order to cool the refrigerator back down. See the “Food Storage Guide” section. |
The door is opened often. | Expect the motor to run longer when this occurs. In order to conserve energy, try to get everything you need out of the refrigerator at once, keep food organized so it is easy to find, and close the door as soon as the food is removed. |
The controls are not set correctly for the surrounding conditions. | Refer to the “How the controls work” section. |
The doors are not closed completely. | Push the doors firmly shut. If they will not shut all the way, see “The doors will not close completely,” later in this section. |
The base grille is dirty or blocked. | This prevents air circulation and makes the motor work harder. Remove the grille and clean. See “Removing the base grille” section. |
The condenser coils are dirty. | This prevents air transfer and makes the motor work harder. Clean the condenser coils. Refer to the “Cleaning Your Refrigerator” section. |
The door gaskets are not sealed all the way around. Contact a qualified person or a technician. | If the problem is not due to any of the above, remember that your new refrigerator will run longer than your old one due to its high efficiency motor. |
The refrigerator seems to make too much noise | |
Certain sounds and noises are common for new refrigerators. | Refer to the “Understanding the sounds you may hear” section. |
The ice maker is not producing ice | |
The freezer temperature is not cold enough to produce ice. | See the “Setting the controls” section. |
The ice maker arm is in the “OFF” (up) position. | Lower arm to the “ON” (down) position. See “Using the optional automatic ice maker” section. |
The water line shut-off valve to the refrigerator is not turned on. | Turn on the water valve. See the “Attaching the optional ice maker to a water supply” section. |
An ice cube is jammed in the ejector arm. | Remove the ice from the ejector arm with a plastic utensil. Refer to the “Using the optional automatic ice maker” section. |
The ice maker mold has no water in it or no ice has been produced. | Check to see if your refrigerator has been connected to your home water supply and the supply shut-off valve is turned on. Refer to the “Attaching the optional ice maker to a water supply” section. |
| If not due to any of the above, there may be a problem with the water line. Contact the Consumer Assistance Center. |
The ice maker is producing too little ice | |
The ice maker has just been installed. | Wait 72 hours for full ice production to begin. Once your refrigerator is cooled down, the ice maker should begin producing 70-120 cubes every 24 hours. |
A large amount of ice has just been removed. | Allow 24 hours for ice maker to restock. |
The controls are not set correctly. | Refer to the “Setting the controls” section. |
The water shut-off valve is not turned completely on. | Turn valve on fully. Refer to the “Attaching the optional ice maker to a water supply” section. |
There is a water filter installed on the refrigerator. This filter may be clogged or installed incorrectly. | First, check the filter installation instructions to ensure that the filter was installed correctly and is not clogged. If installation or clogging is not a problem, call a qualified person or technician. |
Off-taste or odor in the ice | |
The plumbing connections are new, causing discolored or off-flavored ice. | Discard the first few batches of ice. |
The ice cubes have been stored for too long. | Throw old ice away and make a new supply. |
Food in the freezer has not been wrapped properly. | Refer to the “Storing Frozen Food” section. |
Freezer and ice bin need to be cleaned. | See the “Cleaning Your Refrigerator” section. |
Water contains minerals (such as sulfur). | A filter may need to be installed to remove the minerals. |
The ice dispenser will not operate properly | |
The freezer door is not closed completely. | Push the door firmly shut. If it will not shut all the way, see “The doors will not close completely” later in this section. |
The ice bin is not installed correctly. | Push the ice bin in all the way. If the ice bin does not go in all the way, it may not be put in straight. Pull it out and try again. |
The wrong ice has been added to the bin. | Use only cubes produced by the current ice maker. If other cubes have been added, remove all cubes and check to see that none have become stuck in the delivery chute. |
The ice has frozen in the ice bin. | Shake the ice bin to separate cubes. If cubes do not separate, empty bin and wait 24 hours for ice to restock. |
The ice has melted around the auger (metal spiral) in the ice bucket. | Dump the ice cubes and clean the ice bucket completely Allow 24 hours for the ice maker to restock. Do not try to remove the melted ice with a sharp object. You could damage the ice bucket. |
Ice is stuck in the delivery chute. | Clear the ice from the delivery chute with a plastic utensil. Do not use anything sharp to remove the ice. You could cause damage. |
There is no ice in the bucket. | See “The ice maker is not producing ice” earlier in this section. |
The dispenser arm has been held in too long. | Release dispenser arm. Ice will stop dispensing when the arm is held in too long. Wait three minutes for dispenser motor to reset before using again. (For future use, take large amounts of ice directly from the ice maker so that the dis- penser arm is not held in too long.) |
The water dispenser will not operate properly | |
The freezer door is not closed completely. | Push the door firmly shut. If it will not shut all the way, see “The doors will not close completely” later in this section. |
The water tank has not filled. | The water tank needs to be filled the first time it is used. Depress the water dispenser bar with a large container until you draw two or three quarts (1.9 to 2.8 L) of water. Discard water. (Refer to “Using the water and ice dispensers” section for further instructions on filling the water tank.) |
The water shut-off valve is not turned on or the water line is not connected at the source. | Check to be sure the water shut-off valve is turned on and the water source is connected to the refrigerator. Refer to the “Attaching the optional ice maker to a water supply” section for directions. |
The water shut-off valve is clogged or incorrectly installed. | Refer to the “Attaching the optional ice maker to a water supply” section. Call the Consumer Assistance Center or a plumber. |
There is a kink in the home water source line. | If you find or suspect a kink in the water line, call the Consumer Assistance Center. |
There is a water filter installed on the refrigerator. This filter may be clogged or incorrectly installed. | First, check the filter installation instructions to ensure that the filter was installed correctly and is not clogged. If installation or clogging is not a problem, call the Consumer Assistance Center. |
Water or ice is leaking from the dispenser | |
The glass is not being held under the ice dispenser long enough, causing the ice to spill. | Hold the container under the ice chute for two to three seconds after releasing the dispenser lever. A small amount of ice may dispense after the lever is released. |
The glass is not being held under the water dispenser long enough, causing water to drip. | Hold the container under the water dispenser two to three seconds after releasing the dispenser lever. Water may continue to dispense during this time. |
An ice cube is stuck in the chute and holding the trap door open. | Remove the cube. |
The dispenser water is not cool enough | |
The refrigerator has been newly installed. | Allow 24 hours for the tank to cool completely. |
A large amount of water has been recently dispensed. | Allow 24 hours for the tank to cool completely. |
No water has been recently dispensed. | The first glass of water may not be cool. Discard the first glass of water. |
The center divider between the two compartments is warm | |
The condenser coil or base grille is dirty or clogged. | Clean according to “Cleaning Your Refrigerator” section. |
The motor has quit working. | See “Your refrigerator will not operate” earlier in this section. |
Temperature is too warm | |
The air vents are blocked in either compartment. This prevents the movement of cold air from the freezer to the refrigerator. | Remove any objects from in front of the air vents. Refer to “Ensuring proper air circulation” for the location of air vents. |
The door(s) are opened often. | Be aware that the refrigerator will warm when this occurs. In order to keep the refrigerator cool, try to get everything you need out of the refrigerator at once, keep food organized so it is easy to find, and close the door as soon as the food is removed. |
A large amount of food has just been added to the refrigerator or freezer. | Adding a large amount of food warms the refrigerator. It can take several hours for the refrigerator to return to the normal temperature. |
The controls are not set correctly for the surrounding conditions. | See “How the controls work” section. |
There is interior moisture build-up | |
The air vents are blocked in the refrigerator. | Remove any objects from in front of the air vents. Refer to “Ensuring proper air circulation” for the location of air vents. |
The door is opened often. | To avoid humidity build-up, try to get everything you need out of the refrigerator at once, keep food organized so it is easy to find, and close the door as soon as the food is removed. (When the door is opened, humidity from the outside air enters the refrigerator. The more often the door is opened, the faster humidity builds up, especially when the room itself is very humid.) |
The room is humid. | It is normal for moisture to build up inside the refrigerator when the outside air is humid. |
The food is not packaged correctly. | Check that all food is securely wrapped. If necessary, repackage food according to the guidelines in the “Food Storage Guide” section. Wipe off damp food containers before placing in the refrigerator. |
The controls are not set correctly for the surrounding conditions. | See the “How the controls work” section. |
A self-defrost cycle was completed. | It is normal for droplets to form on the back wall after the refrigerator self-defrosts. |
The doors will not close completely | |
Food packages are blocking the door open. | Rearrange containers so that they fit more tightly and take up less space. |
The ice bin is out of position. | Push the ice bin in all the way. |
The pans, shelves, bins, or baskets are out of position. | Put all pans, shelves, bins, and baskets back into their correct position. |
The gaskets are dirty. | Clean gaskets according to the directions in the “Caring for Your Refrigerator” section. |
The refrigerator is not level. | Level the refrigerator. Refer to “Leveling” in the “Using Your Refrigerator” section. |
The doors were removed during product installation and not properly replaced. | |