Whirlpool refrigerator troubleshooting

Whirlpool manufactures a wide range of high-quality and functional appliances. Its production is intended for a wide audience and occupies a leading position on the international market. The brand manufactures new lines of affordable units of home appliances and gradually increases volumes of its production The variety of its lineup allows you to choose the equipment and the necessary number of options. Below you will find a table of Whirlpool refrigerator troubleshooting system.

Whirlpool chest freezer refrigerator troubleshooting

ProblemCauseSolutions
Compressor will not start (Parts of this diagnosis and service procedure must be performed by a qualified refrigeration system service technician.)1 .Service cord unplugged
2. No power at outlet
3. Thermostat:
a. Turned off
b. Points not closed
4. Relay or overload
5. Loose connections
6. Capacitor
7. Motor windings open, shorted or grounded.
8. Timer
9. Compressor stuck


1 .Plug in electrical outlet
2. Check to confirm 120VAC, 60 Hz at outlet.
3.
a. Turn knob dockwise
b. Place jumper between terminals. If compressor starts, thermostat is defective and should be replaced.
4. Using a start cord, check compressor diredly, if compressor starts, check relay and overload separately with ohmmeter and replace defedive part. If compressor does not start, call for a qualified service technician.
5. Check drcuit from power source to compressor.
6. Check capacitor and replace if defective.
7. Check winding with ohmmeter. See wiring diagram for resistance values. Replace compressor if motor is defedive.
8. a. Timer may be in defrost cyde. Turn dockwise past 2 o'clock.
b. Wired wrong
c. Check timer and replace if defedive.
9. Try starting with starting cord. If compres sor won’t start, call for a qualified service technidan.
Compressor runs, but no refrigeration or insufficient refrigeration.1 .Air circulation on high-side:
a. Condenser or grille blocked by lint.
b. Condenser fan not running or too slow.
c. Unit compartment rear cover not in place.
d. Air obstruction in back or above cabinet.
2.Moisture Restriction
3. Permanent Restriction
4. Low Charge or No Charge
5. No Capacity or Low-Capacity Compressor
1.
a. Clean condenser and air passage withvacuum cleaner.
b. Check for continuity in fan motor, replace if defedive.
c. Put unit compartment rear cover in place.
d. Clean condenser or back of cabinet and make sure there is three inches or more of free air space above the cabinet.
2. Call for a qualified service technician.
3. Call for a qualified service technician.
4. Call for a qualified service technician.
5. Call for a qualified service technician.
Compressor stops on overload (Parts of this diagnosis and service procedure must be performed by a qualified refrigeration system service technician.)1. High ambient and/or abnormal usage
2. Low or high voltage
3. Capacitor
4. Air circulation on high-side:
a. Condenser or grille blocked by lint.
b. Condenser fan not running or too slow.
c. Unit compartment rear cover not in place.
d. Air obstruction in back or above cabinet.
5. Relay and/or Overload
6. Motor winding shorted
7. Overcharge
8. Compressor stuck
1. On initial pull-down in high ambient, compressor may cut off on overload, instruct customer.
2. Check to confirm 120VAC. 60 Hz at out let. If not correct, a qualified electrician must make repairs.
3. Check capacitor, replace if defective.
4.
a. Clean condenser and air passage with vacuum cleaner.
b. Check for continuity in fan motor, replace if defective.
c. Put unit compartment rear cover in place.
d. Clean condenser or back of cabinet and make sure there is three inches or more of free air space above the cabinet.
5. Check each component and replace defective part.
6. Check motor winding with ohmmeter. Replace compressor if motor is defective. Call for a qualified service technician.
7.Call for a qualified service technician.
8.Call for a qualified service technician.
Freezer compartment too warm (Parts of this diagnosis and service procedure must be performed by a qualified refrigeration system service technician.)1. Thermostat
a. Set too warm
b. Sensing tube not properly located
c. Out of calibration or not functioning
5. Interior air circulation
a. Evaporator Fan not running
b. Restriction in air ducts
c. Air control open too wide
6. Abnormal use
7. Bad door seal or door not closing
8. High ambient temperature
9. Cabinet light(s)
10. Excessive frost on evaporator unit:
a. Compressor won't run
b. Compressor runs continuously
1.
a.Turn knob to higher setting.
b.See that sensing tube in covered with barrier and properly located.
c. Check thermostat for cutin and cut out temperatures, recalibrate or replace.
5.
a. Check evaporator fan motor winding, replace if defective.
b. Remove obstruction in ducts.
c. Adjust rear panel on air tower.
6. Instruct customer
7. a. Adjust door to obtain proper door seal, b. Instruct customer to make sure door closes completely.
8. Locate in area out of direct sunlight and away from air vents and other source of heat.
9. Check to make sure door switch is closed, replace or adjust switch.
10. Check items under “Incomplete Defrosting"
Call for a qualified service technician.



Refrigerator compartment too warm (Parts of this diagnosis and service procedure must be performed by a qualified refrigeration system service technician.)1. Thermostat
a. Set too warm
b. Sensing tube not properly located
c. Out of calibration or not functioning
2. Air control closed
3. Abnormal use
4. Bad door seal or door not closing
5. High ambient temperature
6. Cabinet light(s)
7. Excessive frost on evaporator unit:
a. Compressor won't run
b. Compressor runscontinuously

1.
a.Turn knob to higher setting.
b.See that sensing tube is properly positioned and pressed into retainer dips.
c. Check thermostat for cutin and cut-out temperatures, recalibrate or replace.
2. Adjust rear panel on air tower.
3. Instruct customer.
4. a. Adjust door to obtain proper door seal, b. Instruct customer to make sure door closes completely.
5. Locate in area out of direct sunlight and away from air vents and other source of heat.
6. Check to make sure door switch is closed replace or adjust switch.
7. Check items under “Incomplete Defrosting".
Call for a qualified service technician.
Freezer compartment too cold1. Thermostat
a. Set too cold
b. Sensing tube not properly positioned
c. Out of calibration or not functioning
2. Air control closed
a. Turn knob to lower number.
b. See that sensing tube is covered by barrier and property located.
c. Check thermostat for cut-in and cu-tout temperatures, recalibrate or replace.
2. Adjust rear panel of air tower.

Refrigerator compartment too cold1. Thermostat
a. Set too cold
b. Sensing tube not properly positioned
c. Out of calibration or not functioning
1.
a.Turn knob to lower setting.
b.See that sensing tube is properly positioned and pressed into retainer dips.
c. Check thermostat for cut-in and cut-out temperatures, recalibrate or replace.
External sweating1.Door seal
2. Void in insulation
1 .Adjust door for proper door seal.
2. Voids are not likely to occur within cabinet walls. If in accessible area, fill with fiberglass.
Internal sweating1 .Abnormal Use
2. Door seal
3. Insufficient air circulation
1. Instruct customer to cover foods and liquids.
2. Check door seal and adjust door. Instruct customer to be sure door doses completely.
3.
a. Make sure return air flow is not restricted.
b. Increase cold air flow by operating refrigerator compartment as cold as possible without freezing food.
Incomplete defrosting, or high cabinet temperatures during defrost1. Bi-metal
2. Timer
3. Defrost heater
4. Drain clogged
1. Check bi-metal defrost control. If bimetal opens too soon, defrost will be incomplete and frost will accumulate. If bi-metal is stuck closed or opens too late, high cabinet temperatures will result. A loose bi-metal may cause the defrost heater to stay on too long. Change bi-metal is defective.
2.Check timer for proper operation. Timer should initiate 21-minute defrost cycle every 12 hours. Replace timer if defective.
3. Check defrost heater with ohmmeter. Replace if open or shorted.
4. Clogged drain may result in ice buildup in evaporator. Clean drain system.

Whirlpool WH35S1Q refrigerator troubleshooting

PROBLEMPOSSIBLE CAUSESSOLUTIONS
The refrigerator will not operateCheck electrical supplyPlug the power cord into a grounded 3 prong outlet. Do not use an extension cord.
Make sure there is power to the outlet. Plug in a lamp to see if the outlet is working.
Reset a tripped circuit breaker. Replace any blown fuses. NOTE: If problems continue, contact an electrician.
Check controlsMake sure the controls are turned on.
New installationAllow 24 hours following installation for the refrigerator to cool completely. NOTE: Adjusting the temperature controls to the coldest setting will not cool either compartment more quickly.
Refrigerator control is in Showroom mode (on some models)If the refrigerator is in Showroom mode, cooling is turned off and “Showroom” will be illuminated on the control panel.
The motor seems to run too muchHigh efficiency compressor and fansLarger, more efficient refrigerators run longer at lower, more energy efficient speeds.
The room or outdoor temperature is hot.It is normal for the refrigerator to work longer under these conditions. For optimum performance, place the refrigerator in an indoor, temperature controlled environment.
A large amount of warm food has been recently added.Warm food will cause the refrigerator to run longer until the air cools to the desired temperature.
The door(s) are opened too frequently or for too long.Warm air entering the refrigerator causes it to run more. Open the door less often.
The refrigerator door or freezer drawer is ajar.Make sure the refrigerator is level.
The refrigerator control is set too cold.Adjust the refrigerator control to a less cold setting until the refrigerator temperature is as desired.
The door or drawer gasket is dirty, worn, or cracked.Clean or change the gasket. Leaks in the door seal will cause the refrigerator to run longer in order to maintain desired temperatures.
The lights do not workYour refrigerator is equipped with LED lighting which does not need to be replaced.If there is power to the refrigerator and the lights do not illuminate when a door or drawer is opened, call for service or assistance.
The dispenser light is set to OFFOn some models, the dispenser light will operate only when a dispenser paddle is pressed. If you want the dispenser light to stay on continuously.
Doors have been open longer than 10 minutesClose the doors and drawer to reset, and open to resume lighted task.
Pantry Temperature Control not lit/unresponsiveThe refrigerator is in Cooling Off modeExit Cooling Off mode.
The refrigerator controls’ initialization process did not complete successfully.Unplug the refrigerator, wait 5 seconds. Plug in the refrigerator, and wait 30 seconds before opening any of the refrigerator doors or touching the control panel.
The refrigerator seems noisy Below are listed some normal sounds with explanations.The compressor in your new refrigerator regulates temperature more efficiently while using less energy, and operates quietly. Due to this reduction in operating noise you may notice unfamiliar noises that are normal.
Sound of the compressor running longer than expectedHigh-efficiency compressor and fansLarger, more efficient refrigerators run longer at lower, more energy efficient speeds.
Pulsating/WhirringFans/compressor adjusting to optimize performance during normal compressor operationThis is normal.
PoppingContraction/expansion of inside walls, especially during initial cool-downThis is normal.
Hissing/DrippingFlow of refrigerant, or flow of oil in the compressorThis is normal.
VibrationThe refrigerator may not be steadyAdjust the leveling screws and lower the leveling foot firmly against the floor.
Rattling/BangingMovement of the water lines against the refrigerator cabinet, or of items placed on top of the refrigerator cabinetMove excess water line away from the refrigerator cabinet or fasten excess tubing to the cabinet. Remove items from the top of the refrigerator.
SizzlingWater dripping on the heater during defrost cycleThis is normal.
Water running/GurglingMay be heard when ice melts during the defrost cycle and water runs into the drain panThis is normal.
Buzzing and ClickingHeard when the water valve opens and closes to dispense water and/or fill the ice maker.If the refrigerator is connected to a water line, this is normal. If the refrigerator is not connected to a water line, turn OFF the ice maker.
Repetitive ClickingDual evaporator valve regulating the cooling operationYou may hear rapid repetitive clicking sounds as the unit switches from cooling one compartment to cooling the other. This sound is normal.
Creaking/Cracking/GrindingMay be heard as ice is being ejected from the ice maker moldThis is normal.
ClatterMay be heard when the ice falls into the ice storage binThis is normal.
Temperature is too warmThe refrigerator has just been installed.Allow 24 hours following installation for the refrigerator to cool completely.
Cooling is turned off.Turn on cooling.
The controls are not set correctly for the surrounding conditions.Adjust the controls a setting colder. Check the temperature in 24 hours.
The door(s) are opened often or not closed completely.Allows warm air to enter refrigerator. Minimize door openings and keep doors fully closed.
A large load of food was recently added.Allow several hours for refrigerator to return to normal temperature.
Temperature is too cold in the refrigerator/crisperThe refrigerator air vent(s) are blocked.If the air vent located in the top, left, rear corner of the refrigerator compartment is blocked by items placed directly in front of it, the refrigerator will get too cold. Move items away from the air vent.
The controls are not set correctly for the surrounding conditions.Adjust the controls a setting warmer. Check the temperature in 24 hours.
The ice storage bin is not in the correct position.
Temperature is too cold in the pantry drawersThe control is not set correctly for the items stored in drawer.Adjust the temperature setting.
There is interior moisture buildup. NOTE: Some moisture buildup is normal.The room is humidA humid environment contributes to moisture buildup.
The door(s) are opened often or not closed completely.Allows humid air to enter the refrigerator. Minimize door openings and close doors completely.
The door is blocked openMove food packages away from door.
A bin or shelf is in the wayPush bin or shelf back into the correct position.
Storing liquid in open containersThis adds humidity to the refrigerator interior. Keep all containers tightly covered.
There is frost/ice buildup in the freezer compartmentThe drawer is opened often or left open.Minimize drawer openings and close drawer completely after use.
Poor door sealEnsure door seals are making full contact with the refrigerator cabinet to allow for an adequate seal.
Temperature controls are not set correctly
The ice maker is not producing ice or is not producing enough iceThe refrigerator is not connected to a water supply or the water supply shutoff valve is not turned on.Connect refrigerator to water supply and turn water shutoff valve fully open.
There is a kink in the water source line.A kink in the line can reduce water flow. Straighten the water source line.
The ice maker is not turned on.Make sure the ice maker is on.
The refrigerator has just been installed.Wait 24 hours after ice maker installation for ice production to begin. Wait 3 days for full ice production.
The refrigerator door is not closed completely.Close the door firmly. If it does not close completely.
A large amount of ice was recently removed.Allow sufficient time for ice maker to produce more ice.
An ice cube is jammed in the ice maker ejector arm.Remove ice from the ejector arm with a plastic utensil.
A water filter is installed on the refrigerator.Remove the water filter and operate the ice maker. If ice volume improves, then the filter may be clogged or incorrectly installed. Replace filter or reinstall it correctly.
A reverse osmosis water filtration system is connected to your cold water supply.This can decrease water pressure.
The ice cubes are hollow or small NOTE: This is an indication of low water pressure.The water shutoff valve is not fully open.Turn the water shutoff valve fully open.
There is a kink in the water source line.A kink in the line can reduce water flow. Straighten the water source line.
A water filter is installed on the refrigerator.Remove filter and operate ice maker. If ice quality improves, then the filter may be clogged or incorrectly installed. Replace filter or reinstall it correctly.
A reverse osmosis water filtration system is connected to your cold water supply.This can decrease water pressure.
Questions remain regarding water pressure.Call a licensed, qualified plumber.
The ice maker is not producing ice or is not producing enough iceThe refrigerator is not connected to a water supply or the water supply shutoff valve is not turned on.Connect refrigerator to water supply and turn water shutoff valve fully open.
There is a kink in the water source line.A kink in the line can reduce water flow. Straighten the water source line.
The ice maker is not turned on.Make sure the ice maker is on.
The refrigerator has just been installed.Wait 24 hours after ice maker installation for ice production to begin. Wait 3 days for full ice production.
The refrigerator door is not closed completely.Close the door firmly. If it does not close completely.
A large amount of ice was recently removed.Allow sufficient time for ice maker to produce more ice.
An ice cube is jammed in the ice maker ejector arm.Remove ice from the ejector arm with a plastic utensil.
A water filter is installed on the refrigerator.Remove the water filter and operate the ice maker. If ice volume improves, then the filter may be clogged or incorrectly installed. Replace filter or reinstall it correctly.
A reverse osmosis water filtration system is connected to your cold water supply.This can decrease water pressure.
The ice cubes are hollow or small NOTE: This is an indication of low water pressure.The water shutoff valve is not fully open.Turn the water shutoff valve fully open.
There is a kink in the water source line.A kink in the line can reduce water flow. Straighten the water source line.
A water filter is installed on the refrigerator.Remove filter and operate ice maker. If ice quality improves, then the filter may be clogged or incorrectly installed. Replace filter or reinstall it correctly.
A reverse osmosis water filtration system is connected to your cold water supply.This can decrease water pressure.
Questions remain regarding water pressure.Call a licensed, qualified plumber.
Off-taste, odor or gray color in the ice or waterNewly installed refrigerator requires flush of water system.Flush the water system.
Recently installed or replaced plumbing connections. New plumbing connections can cause discolored or off-flavored ice and water.Discard the ice and wash the ice storage bin. Flush the water system with 3 gal. (12 L) of water. Allow 24 hours for the ice maker to make new ice, and discard the first 3 batches of ice produced.
Using a water supply connection type other than recommended.It is recommended to use copper tubing or Whirlpool supply line, Part Number 8212547RP.
The ice has been stored too long.Discard ice. Wash ice storage bin. Allow 24 hours for ice maker to make new ice.
The water has been stored too long.Dispense at least 1 qt (1 L) of water per week to maintain a fresh supply.
Odor from stored food has transferred to the ice.Use airtight, moisture proof packaging to store food.
There are minerals (such as sulfur) in the water.A water filter may need to be installed to remove the minerals.
There is a water filter installed on the refrigerator.Gray or dark discoloration in ice may indicate that the water filtration system needs additional flushing. Flush the water system after installing and before using a new water filter.
The water filter needs to be replaced.Replace the disposable water filter at least every 6 months or when indicated.
The water and ice dispenser will not operate properlyThe refrigerator is not connected to a water supply or the water supply shutoff valve is not turned on.Connect the refrigerator to the water supply and turn the water shutoff valve fully open.
There is a kink in the water source lineA kink in the water line can reduce water flow from the water dispenser and result in hollow or irregular shaped ice. Straighten the water source line.
The refrigerator has just been installed.Flush and fill the water system.
The water pressure to the house is not at or above 35 psi (241 kPa).The water pressure to the house determines the flow from the dispenser.
A reverse osmosis water filtration system is connected to your cold water supply.A reverse osmosis water filtration system can decrease water pressure.
The water filter may be clogged.Remove the water filter and operate dispenser. If water flow increases, your filter is clogged and needs to be replaced.
The water filter is installed incorrectlyRemove the water filter and reinstall.
The refrigerator door or freezer drawer is not closed completely.Close the door or drawer firmly. If it does not close completely.
The refrigerator doors were recently removed.Make sure the water dispenser wire/tube assembly has been properly reconnected at the top of the refrigerator door.
Ice is clogged in the ice storage bin or ice is blocking the ice delivery chute.Remove the ice clogging the storage bin and delivery chute, using a plastic utensil if necessary. Clean the ice delivery chute and the bottom of the ice storage bin using a warm, damp cloth, then dry both thoroughly. To avoid clogging and to maintain a fresh supply of ice, empty the storage bin and clean both the storage bin and delivery chute every 2 weeks.
The doors will not close completelyThe door is blocked open.Move food packages away from door.
A bin or shelf is in the way.Push bin or shelf back into the correct position.
Recently installedRemove all packaging materials.
The doors arc difficult to openThe door gaskets arc dirty or sticky.Clean gaskets and contact surfaces with mild soap and warm water. Rinse and dry with soft cloth.
The doors appear to be unevenThe doors need to be aligned, or the refrigerator needs to be leveled.
The refrigerator is unsteady or it rolls forward when opening and closing doorsThe refrigerator brake feet are not snug against the floorRemove the base grille. Turn both brake feet (one on each side) clockwise, the same amount, until they are snug against the floor.

Whirlpool WRF757SDEM refrigerator troubleshooting

FAILUREPOSSIBLE CAUSETEST PROCEDURE—ACTION
No lights inside the refrigerator. No display indicators except dots in both temperature displays.The refrigerator is OFF.Press the ON/OFF keypad for two seconds to turn the unit ON.
No indicators illuminate on user interface. Unit may or may not be cooling.No power to the user interface from the control board.Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power. Check circuits/connectors from control board to user interface.
Attempt to turn ON unit by pressing the ON/OFF keypad.
If unit is cooling, control board is in default mode.
If unit is not cooling, unit may be OFF with no way to turn it ON.
Code “d" blinking on the refrigerator display.Air door stuck or open circuit.Perform resistance checks.
Verify the proper wire connections to the air door motor and control board.
Code “C" blinking on the refrigerator display.Refrigerator thermistor failure.Perform resistance checks.
Verify the proper connections to the main board and the resistance value of the thermistor. Replace the main board.
Code “C" blinking on the freezer display.Freezer thermistor failure.Perform resistance checks.
Verify the proper connections to the main board and the resistance value of the thermistor. Replace the main board.
Code “CF" blinking on the freezer display.Communication failure between main board and user interface.Verify the proper connections & circuits for RX and TX.
Replace the user interface and if the problem persists, replace the main board.
18°F (-8°C) or higher temperature reading is blinking on the freezer display.Over-temperature condition due to power failure.Verify proper main plug connection.
Press the freezer temperature keypad to reset.
Code “CF" blinking on the freezer display.Communication failure between main board and user interface.Verify the proper connections & circuits for RX and TX.
Replace the user interface and if the problem persists, replace the main board.
18°F (-8°C) or higher temperature reading is blinking on the freezer display.Over-temperature condition due to power failure.Verify proper main plug connection.
Press the freezer temperature keypad to reset.
Ice maker not producing any ice.Loose connections.
Ice maker failure.
IR receiver relay failure.
IR receiver and emitter optics failure.
Verify proper wire connections.
Replace the IDI electronic boards.
NOTE: In-Door Ice infrared electronic boards used in this product are unique to this product. Other IDI boards fit, but will not allow the icemaker to function.
Evaporator fan motor does not run.Fan motor stuck.
Control board may have initiated fan delay.
Refrigerator or freezer light switches not closing fan circuit. Loose connection.
Control board.
Verify that motor spins freely.
Verify that the control board is not in fan delay.
Motor rectifies 120 volts AC to DC for operation. Verify both light switches function properly. Verify proper circuit and wire connections back to the control board.
Replace the control board.
Condenser fan motor does not run.Fan motor stuck.
Control board may have initiated fan delay.
No voltage to fan motor.
Loose connection.
Control board.
Verify that motor spins freely.
Verify that the control board is not in fan delay.
Motor rectifies 120 volts AC to DC for operation. Verify proper wire circuit and connections back to the control board.
Replace the control board.

Compressor will not run.Refrigerator turned OFF.
Control board may have initiated delay.
Overload or relay failure.
Loose/open electrical connections.
Compressor is stuck.
Control board.

Check the compressor for the following:
• Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power.
• Verify that control board is not in compressor start delay mode.
• Verify proper wire connections.
• Voltage to main control board is missing, replace the main control board.
• Verify that overload and relay are good. If not, replace.
• Verify compressor windings are good, and that the compressor is not stuck. Replace compressor, if necessary.
Will not defrost.Defrost heater.
Defrost bimetal / thermo fuse. Control board.
Defrost can be initiated by disconnecting and reconnecting power. Main control board will attempt to initiate defrost upon restart:
• If bimetal is closed, defrost cycle will start. Relay on main control board will click one time.
• If bimetal or defrost circuit is open, defrost cycle will not start, and the cooling cycle will begin. Relay on main control board will click twice (once to initiate defrost and the second time to switch back to cooling).
Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power.
Check for loose electrical connections.
If all checks out, replace the main control board.
Refrigerator too cold or too warm.Air door may be stuck or frozen open.
User interface may be malfunctioning.
Check air door operation.
Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power. Check resistance of refrigerator thermistor. Replace user interface.

Whirlpool WRID41T refrigerator troubleshooting

ProblemSolutions
Your refrigerator will not operate
The power supply cord is unplugged.Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage.
A household fuse has blown or circuit breaker has tripped.Replace the fuse or reset the circuit.
The refrigerator control is turned to the “OFF” position.
The refrigerator is defrosting.Recheck to see if the refrigerator is operating in 30 minutes. Your refrigerator will regularly run an automatic defrost cycle. If it is still not running after checking the above items, call the Consumer Assistance Center.
The lights do not work
The power supply cord is unplugged.Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage.
A household fuse or circuit breaker has tripped.Replace the fuse or reset the circuit.
A light bulb is loose in the socket.Turn the refrigerator control to OFF. Disconnect the refrigerator from the electrical supply. Gently remove the bulb and reinsert. Then reconnect the refrigerator to the electrical supply and reset the refrigerator control.
A light bulb has burned out.Replace with an appliance bulb of the same wattage, size, and shape.
There is water in the defrost drain pan
The refrigerator is defrosting.The water will evaporate. It is normal for water to drip into the defrost pan.
It is more humid than normal.Expect that the water in the defrost pan will take longer to evaporate. This is normal when it is hot or humid.
Water in the defrost pan is overflowing.Check to make sure your refrigerator is level. If it is still overflowing there is probably something wrong with the refrigerator. Call the Consumer Assistance Center.
There is water in the defrost drain pan
The refrigerator is defrosting.The water will evaporate. It is normal for water to drip into the defrost pan.
It is more humid than normal.Expect that the water in the defrost pan will take longer to evaporate. This is normal when it is hot or humid.
Water in the defrost pan is overflowing.Check to make sure your refrigerator is level. If it is still overflowing there is probably something wrong with the refrigerator. Call the Consumer Assistance Center.
The motor seems to run too much
The room temperature is hotter than normal.At normal room temperatures, expect your motor to run about 40% to 80% of the time. Under warmer conditions, expect your motor to run for longer periods of time.
A large amount of food has just been added to the refrigerator.Adding a large amount of food warms the refrigerator. It is normal for the motor to run longer in order to cool the refrigerator back down.
The door is opened often.Expect the motor to run longer when this occurs. In order to conserve energy, try to get everything you need out of the refrigerator at once, keep food organized so it is easy to find, and close the door as soon as the food is removed.
The controls are not set correctly for the surrounding conditions.
The doors arc not closed completely.Push the doors firmly shut.
The condenser coils are dirty.This prevents air transfer and makes the motor work harder. Clean the condenser coils.
The door gaskets are not sealed all the way around.Contact a qualified person or a technician.
The refrigerator seems to make too much noise
The sounds and noises are common for new refrigerators.
Off-tastc or odor in the ice
The plumbing connections are new, causing discolored or off-flavored ice.Discard the first few batches of ice.
The ice cubes have been stored for too long.Throw old ice away and make a new supply.
Food in the freezer has not been wrapped properly.
Freezer and ice bin need to be cleaned.
Water contains minerals (such as sulfur).A filter may need to be installed to remove the minerals.
The divider between the two compartments is warm
The condenser coils are dirty or clogged.Clean according to the “Cleaning your refrigerator” section.
The motor has quit working.NOTE: The refrigerator temperature may turn from warm to hot. If not due to any of above, the warmth is probably due to normal operation of the automatic exterior moisture control. It still concerned, call the Consumer Assistance Center or an authorized Service company.
Temperature is too warm
The air vents are blocked in either compartment. This prevents the movement of cold air from the freezer to the refrigerator.Remove any objects from in front of the air vents.
The door(s) are opened often.Be aware that the refrigerator will warm when this occurs. In order to keep the refrigerator cool, try to get everything you need out of the refrigerator at once, keep food organized so it is easy to find, and close the door as soon as the food is removed.
A large amount of food has just been added to the refrigerator or freezer.Adding a large amount of food warms the refrigerator. It can take several hours for the refrigerator to return to the normal temperature.
The controls are not set correctly for the surrounding conditions.
There is interior moisture build-up
The air vents are blocked in the refrigerator.Remove any objects from in front of the air vents.
The door is opened often.To avoid humidity build-up, try to get everything you need out of the refrigerator at once, keep food organized so it is easy to find, and close the door as soon as the food is removed. (When the door is opened, humidity from the room air enters the refrigerator. The more often the door is opened, the faster humidity builds up, especially when the room itself is very humid.)
The room is humid.It is normal for moisture to build up inside the refrigerator when the room air is humid.
The food is not packaged correctly.Check that all food is securely wrapped. If necessary, repackage food according to the guidelines in the “Food Storage Guide” section. Wipe off damp food containers before placing in the refrigerator.
The controls are not set correctly for the surrounding conditions.
A self defrost cycle was completed.It is normal for droplets to form on the back wall after the refrigerator self-defrosts.
The doors will not close completely
Food packages are blocking the door open.Rearrange containers so that they fit more tightly and take up less space.
The ice bin is out of position.Push the ice bin in all the way.
The pans, shelves, bins, or baskets are out of position.Put all pans, shelves, bins, and baskets back into their correct position.
The gaskets are dirty.Clean gaskets
The refrigerator is not level.Level the refrigerator.
The doors were removed during product installation and not properly replaced.Remove and replace the doors or, contact a qualified person.
The doors are difficult to open
The gaskets are dirty or sticky.Clean gaskets

Whirlpool Refrigerator Ice Maker Troubleshooting

TOPICPOSSIBLE CAUSESOLUTION
Ice maker appears to have stopped operatingIce maker arm is not in correct positionConfirm ice maker arm is down.
Electrical power cord may not be plugged into icemaker, or harness is not plugged into water valve.Make sure plug from power cord fits tightly into wall outlet, or check that connection
The icemaker is not getting the necessary supply of water.Make sure the water supply is connected and turned on. Remove kinks or replace tubing if there are kinks.
Verify that refrigerator harness is plugged into water valve.
Water filter needs to be replaced.
Freezer temperature is too lowFreezer must be between 0 to 2°F (-18 to -17C) to produce ice.
The cubes are too small.The shutoff valve connecting the refrigerator to the home water line may be clogged. Unclog it. Replace water filter.
Small or hollow cubesWater utilizing devices in use elsewhere in houseAvoid operating device such as dishwasher, washing machine or shower.
Waterfilter needs to be replaced.
Ice cubes have odor/tasteIce stored for an extended period may absorb odors which affect their taste.Discard old cubes. Use icemaker regularly.
Ice storage bin needs to be emptied and washed.Empty and wash ice storage bin.
Unsealed packages in the refrigerator ad/or freezer compartments may be transmitting odor/taste to ice cubes.Check seals on packages in freezer.
The interior of the refrigerator needs cleaning.
Icemaker is not producing iceIce maker arm is not in correct positionConfirm ice maker arm is down.
Household water supply is not reaching water valve.Check water connection procedure in your Installation Instructions.
Copper or plastic tubing has kinks.Turn off water supply and remove kinks. If kinks cannot be removed, replace tubing. Refertothe refrigerators owners manual, serial plate or your dealer for information.
Water pressure is too low.Water pressure must be between 20 to 100 pounds per square inch to function properly. A minimum pressure of 35 pounds per square inch is recommended for units with water filters.
Freezer temperature is too low.Freezer must be between 0 to 2°F (-18 to -17C) to produce ice.
Freezer temperature is too low.Freezer must be between 0 to 2°F (-18 to -17C) to produce ice.
Improper water valve was installed.Check water connection procedure in your Installation Instructions. Self-piercing and saddle valves cause low water pressure and may clog the line overtime.
The manufacturer is not responsible for property damage due to improper installation or water connection.
Icemaker is not producing ice (some models) (continued from previous page)Electrical connection to water valve coil and connector block may be loose.Check electrical connections to water valve coil and connector block on refrigerator cabinet.
Freezer section not operating at proper temperature.Confirm that freezer section is operating at proper temperature. Adjust accordingly.
Ice maker is not producing enough ice or ice is malformed.Ice maker has just recently been installed or a large amount of ice has just been used.Wait 24 hours for ice production to begin and for ice to restock after emptied.
Water pressure is too low.Low water pressure can cause valve to leak. Water pressure must be between 20 to 100 pounds per square inch to function properly. A minimum pressure of 35 pounds per square inch is recommended for units with waterfilters.
Waterfilter needs to be replaced.
Freezer temperature is too low. Freezer must be between 0 to 2°F (-18 to -17°C) to produce ice.
Ice cubes stick together or “shrink”.Ice cubes have not been emptied.Empty ice cube bucket or trays more frequently. If used infrequently, ice cubes may stick together or shrink.
Ice forms in inlet tube to ice maker (some models).Water pressure is too low.Check water pressure. Low water pressure will cause valve to leak. Self-piercing valves cause low water pressure. A saddle valve is recommended.
Freezer temperature is too highFreezer is recommended to be between 0 and 2°F(-18to-17°C).
Unit is leaking waterPlastic tubing was used to complete water connection.Copper tubing is recommended for installation. Plastic is less durable and can cause leakage. The manufacturer is not responsible for property damage due to improper installation or water connection.
Water pressure is too low.Low water pressure can cause valve to leak. Water pressure must be between 20 to 100 pounds per square inch to function properly. A minimum pressure of 35 pounds per square inch is recommended for units with waterfilters.
Improper watervalve was installed instructions.Check water connection procedure in your Installation Self-piercing and 3/16” saddle valves cause low water pressure and may clog the line over time. The manufacturer is not responsible for property damage due to improper installation or water connection.

Whirlpool Refrigerator Conquest Ice Maker Troubleshooting

TOPICPOSSIBLE CAUSESOLUTION
Ice maker is not producing ice, not producing enough ice, or producing small/hollow iceRefrigerator is not connected to a water supply, or the water supply shutoff valve is not fully turned onConnect the refrigerator to a water supply and make sure the water shutoff valve is fully open.
Kink in the water source lineA kink in the water line can reduce water flow, resulting in decreased ice production, small ice cubes, and/or hollow or irregularly-shaped ice. Straighten the water line.
Ice maker is not turned onTurn on the ice maker.
New installationAfter connecting the refrigerator to a water source, flush the water system. Wait 24 hours for ice production to begin. Wait 72 hours for full ice production. Discard the first three batches of ice produced.
Large amount of ice was recently removedAllow sufficient time for the ice maker to produce more ice.
Ice is jammed in the ice maker ejector armRemove ice from the ejector arm using a plastic utensil.
Inadequate water pressureVerify that the household has adequate water pressure.
Water filter is installed incorrectlyMake sure the filter is properly installed.
A reverse osmosis water filtration system is connected to your cold water supplyThis can decrease water pressure.
Ice dispenser will not operate properlyDoors not closed completelyMake sure both doors are firmly closed. (On some models, only the freezer door must be closed in order to operate the dispenser.)
New installationAfter connecting the refrigerator to a water source, flush the water system. Wait 24 hours for ice production to begin. Wait 72 hours for full ice production. Discard the first three batches of ice produced.
Ice maker is not turned on, or ice bin is not installed correctlyTurn on the ice maker and make sure the ice storage bin is firmly in position.
Ice is clogged or frozen together in the ice storage bin, or ice is blocking the ice delivery chuteRemove or separate the clogged ice, using a plastic utensil if necessary. Clean the ice delivery chute and the bottom of the ice storage bin using a warm damp cloth, then dry both thoroughly. To avoid clogging and to maintain a fresh supply of ice, empty the storage bin and clean both the storage bin and the delivery chute every 2 weeks.
Wrong ice has been added to the storage binUse only ice cubes produced by the current ice maker.
Dispenser is lockedUnlock the dispenser.
Ice dispenser jams while dispensing crushed iceFor models with the ice storage bin on the door, temporarily switch from crushed ice to cubed ice to clear the jam.
Dispenser pad/lever has been pressed too longIce will automatically stop dispensing. Wait a few minutes for the dispenser to reset, then resume dispensing. Take large amounts of ice directly from the ice bin, not through the dispenser.
Water pressure to the home is not at or above 30 psi (207 kPa)The water pressure to the home affects the flow from the dispenser.
Water filter is clogged or incorrectly installedReplace filter or reinstall it correctly.
Ice or water has an off-taste, odor, or gray colorNew plumbing connectionsNew plumbing connections can result in off-flavored or discolored ice or water. This problem should go away over time.
Ice has been stored too longDiscard the ice and wash the ice bin. Allow 24 hours for the ice maker to produce new ice.
Odor has transferred from foodUse airtight moisture-proof packaging to store food.
Use of non-recommended water supply lineOdors and tastes can transfer from certain materials used in non-recommended water supply lines. Use only a recommended water supply line.
There are minerals (such as sulfur) in the waterA water filter may need to be installed in order to remove the minerals.
Water filter was recently installed or replacedGray or dark discoloration in ice or water indicates that the water filtration system needs additional flushing.