Check Defrost Sensor and Fan
A message signifying error code 22e-5e means they you actually have two errors. One reports that the defrost sensor is down and needs to be replaced. The other one reports improper work of the fan. Because the work of the latter depends on the work of the defrost sensor, these two codes have to be related. Improper functioning of the defrost sensor will affect the air flow and impede the fan’s rotation. It causes ice to build up and may disrupt the fridge’s functioning. Most likely, the procedure will require removal of the back panel (inside) and thawing of ice. Also, this may require a source of heat to speed up the thawing.
Once the sensor is replaced, the system will become operational. After that, there will be just one final step to clear the errors: press the top right and left buttons on the control panel simultaneously and hold them for 5 seconds. Defrost sensors are available at refrigerator part stores for about $10. As follows from the above, the whole procedure requires a few simple manipulations and can be carried out without professional assistance.
Check Air Flow
Air flow problems often occur due to ice buildups, as they block the vent system. Check the vent and see if there is ice or other objects blocking it. Check the settings: there may be too much cold air coming in, especially if the control is placed at a high (mostly, the highest) setting.
To make sure that this is indeed a defrost terminator issue, you need to test it. Remove and put it in a cup of ice-cold water and wait for about 30 minutes until the water reaches room temperature. Then check the sensor for continuity.
Check Defrost Timer
Also, you may need to check the defrost timer. Mark its current position using a mark pen or pencil, put a screwdriver in a slot and turn the stem clockwise until it clicks and launches the defrost mode. Wait 20 minutes or so and check if the fridge has heated up enough to start melting the ice. If it has, the device is all right.
Use a Multi Meter
Pull the timer out and touch Prong 1 and Prong 3 of the timer with your meter prong. Adjust your meter to high Ohms (thousands) just for proper reading (adjusting to low resistance may result in poor reading). If the capacitor in your refrigerator is connected with the windings in series, do not check it for Ohms. Check it for micro fares instead. If this way of checking does not work, do the following: put your meter on Prong 1 and Prong 4 to check resistance. Then check Prong 1 and Prong 2. It should read “no ohms (no resistance of ‘infinity’). Now, turn the timer’s stem clockwise with a screwdriver (as described above) until it clicks. You should see 1 and 2 read as ‘closed’ (there are ohms); vice versa, Prong 1 and Prong 4 should read ‘open’ (no ohms). If that is the case, your timer is all right.
Check the Heating Element
It is found under the coil system. When testing it, make sure it reads Ohms when tested either way (with both prong configurations).
Check the Cold Control Thermostat
It should be checked for resistance and voltage. It must read 110V. If it reads no Ohms (infinity), the system will not complete the whole cool-and-defrost cycle. The procedure should be carried out with the refrigerator plugged. Please, exercise extreme caution!